The start date for the climb was Sep 5th 2017. There were 6 of us in the group. Martin the tour organiser, Julie and Ian from Teignmouth who run a Specsavers store who were with Martin and myself on the Ethiopia adventure, Elena who was doing the climb for charity and myself and my son Matt. We were gathered outside the hotel where Martin was spraying water over everybody in his not very good attempts to fill the water bladders for the backpacks waiting for the bus. The bus arrived, surprisingly for Africa, on time with the guides and porters of which there were so many. 

The chief guide was Rama aided by Rama II and Tami. Stephen was the chef and it turned out that he was going to create wonderful meals from one gas hob on the mountain, a man with a wonderful talent. Rama informed that his team was called Team Raha which means Team Happy. They certainly were, I can't remember a miserable face despite the daunting loads and slopes. Every evening when we arrived in the camp we were given a sing song but from the looks on their faces, it seemed as though we were incidental although we were encouraged to join in, mainly to entertain them with our inadequate efforts of African dancing and singing which gave many smiles.

We were doing the Machame route. It starts at Machame Gate 5718 feet, 1743 metres. Ben Nevis is 4413 feet (1345 metres) so we were already above the highest point in the UK where we had to register for the climb.  The porters are restricted to 20 kg load which was rigorously weighed. Where a load was less than 20 kg then Stephen was on hand to top up with vegetables and cooking supplies.Here are our porters queuing up to have the loads weighed.

The first night was camping at Machame Camp 3026 metres so the equivalent of climbing Ben Nevis. The walking was mainly through Rain Forest but mostly on a trail path.  Blue monkeys were spotted by our guides, high up  in the trees. The guides told us that we had to walk "Pole, Pole" which means slowly, slowly. Pole rhymes with Guacamole and this was the mantra for the trip - Pole Pole - Guacamole, to be shouted at regular intervals.  





The porters did amazing work carrying the tents and supplies up the mountain.
















The first night we got to know our tents, which for me was working out which zips worked and which did not and learning the manouevres to get in and out of the tent. One of the porters came with "washy washy" water every evening and morning and on the trip I discovered dry shampoo and dry washes.  We were also in luxury as we  had "bed tea" every morning, although for me, it was "bed ginger" which was perfect for Kilimanjaro.



The toilets were dire hole in the ground, strangely as we went up, the toilets improved although still hole in the ground and there was a tendency for them to hang over the edge.

The second day was to Shira camp(3766m) and the rainforest petered out into bushes and then into moorlands.  Shira camp was on a plateau and was pleasant enough for a walk. We did take a walk in the evening just to get some more altitude as the old adage for acclimatisation is climb high, sleep low. We were in high spirits.

The following morning,I had my first sight of the summit as it was covered in clouds up to now.

Every evening after our meal, Rama came to the mess tent to explain the following day and to take a medical questionnaire which included measuring the blood oxygen level.  On the first night, it was 93% (on my return to UK, I had it measured and it was 98%) but by the last night, it was 77% which in the UK would normally be into hospital for observation. We were very impressed by the professional way that Rama was organising the trip. Martin told us that this was much better than the team he had last year and we were grateful to be in the hands of Rama.

The following day we walked to Barranco camp (3983m) but on the way we climbed to the Lava Tower (4600m) before descending into the Barranco valley which is quite pleasant with wonderful Senecio trees and other beautiful flowers.


































I was struggling at this point. I had been taking Diamox for the altitude sickness but I decided that the side effects were causing more distress than the benefit. I made the decision to stop and I woke up the following morning feeling much better. This was when I found out my nickname from the guides - Babou and when I was looking much better, it was Strong Babou.

The next day starts with a scramble up the Barranco wall. It is certainly an exciting climb and we were all glad to get to the top and we were all amazed at the ease of the porters going up the wall though Martin did bring a note of reality by informing that a porter fell to his death the previous year.






























We were now in the alpine desert region and we spent the day walking to Barafu camp (4645m). On the way, Julie collapsed. She was helped up, stating that if Cheryl Cole can make it to the top then she could and marched on.  She bravely made it to the camp but she decided that she was not fit enough to continue which saved Rama from having to tell her. 

Whereas I was struggling at the Lava tower, I was now feeling relatively comfortable at Barafu camp. I emphasise relative as just wandering around was becoming a struggle at this altitude. Barafu is very bare and inhospitable.  



Rama told us in the evening meal at 7pm that we would start the ascent at 11:30pm and we should have a nap. 

On my way back to my tent, one of the porters Santos who was very friendly with all the group, stopped me to put a good luck bracelet on me.  He told me that this will give me the spirit to get to the top. I was touched and glad to receive any offers of any assistance. I found it impossible to sleep with the excitement.  We set out with a prayer and the mantra "Nonstop to the top".  There were 5 of us plus 2 guides (Tami had stayed with Julie to take her back down to the next camp) and 2 special porters.  

It was a long night of climbing but our guides and porters certainly kept the spirits up by lots of singing and plentiful dates for energy to eat from a knife.  It was cold and my water bottles froze so it was like drinking slushy ice cream with the accompanying neuralgia headache. Venus appeared in the sky, red at first as we were looking down on Venus through the atmosphere and then into a bright light preceding a magnificent sunrise.  

I was so cold and tired with big ski gloves that I did not take a photograph on the ascent but Matt did so I have used his. Once the sunrise started you were wishing the sun to come up and shine its warming rays on you. I do remember turning around and seeing Ian behind me and although it was not helped by the lighting from the head torch, I cannot remember seeing someone look so white. 

The top slowly came closer and we were going so slowly. I was thinking that the last time I felt this exhausted was at the end of the marathon. Onward and upward we plodded in our sequence and eventually we reached the top of the crater - Stellar Point.  I found a rock and sat down, planning my descent. There was a sign saying 1km walk to the top, 100m altitude gain to the Uhuru summit. I was not thinking about the final part. Matt came over and said the rest of the group were ready to continue. Once I knew this then I knew that I had to continue also.  

It was a long shuffle toward the top which you could see in the distance, I cannot tell you how long it took but it was an extremely long time.  I was buoyed by the encouraging words from other climbers returning from the top. I also started to stroke the bracelet that Santos gave to me what seemed an age ago. I said that if this bracelet was going to help then it needs to start working now. 


Although I was exhausted, you could still appreciate the beauty up there and the low sun casting shadows.


Somehow, the top was reached and we joined the queue for the summit photographs.  I also had a chance to look around at the top. It was a magical place, looking down into the crater like a lost world and seeing the glaciers rising majestically. I was light headed at the top and feeling like I was drunk.  Rama put his cap on me - it says TBE The Best Ever(apparently Floyd Mayweather) which is why I have this silly cap on my head.  

After the photographs then it was walk back to Stellar Point where I was told it was Fast Descent. Rama II took my arm and launched up down the slope.  Martyn and Matt tried to follow but we were going so fast they could not keep up.  We ended up back at the base camp I think after 90 minutes descent which had taken 9 hours to climb up. After a brief sleep and some wonderful pancakes that Stephen had cooked - for me the best ever pancakes but I may have been slightly delirious - we set out to the final camp.  


My toes had been wrecked by the descent and I was still in my walking boots. Every step to the final camp was painful and I knew I was holding the rest of the team up.  The final camp site was the most beautiful camp site and sat there with a sense of achievement.  In the morning, the porters sang for us one last time and we did our farewell hugs, high fives. I had wrapped my toes in toilet roll. took the pain killers and put a pair of trainers on.  I could now manage to walk and we walked down to Mweka Gate with some farewell looks at the summit. Now we were back in reality and being connected to the wide world.